A Nordic Voyage: Cruising Norway’s Fjords on P&O’s Iona
A Nordic Voyage: Cruising Norway’s Fjords on P&O’s Iona
In August 2023, I embarked on my first-ever cruise aboard P&O’s Iona, joined by my wonderful mum. It had been more than thirty years since we had travelled together but it was more than just a holiday - it was an unforgettable adventure at sea.
After a heartbreaking 2022, in which my mum lost her husband and I lost my much-loved dad unexpectedly, we had faced a difficult time of grief and healing. Wanting to give my mum something to look forward to and to spend some meaningful time together, we decided to book our first holiday together in more than thirty years. And so, we set sail across the North Sea toward the breathtaking Norwegian Fjords, a world heritage site.
From the moment we stepped aboard, the trip felt like the perfect escape - we had seven nights to create some wonderful memories together.
Map of Norway
A Change to the Itinerary Due to Storm Antoni
Day 1: Depart Southampton
Day 2: At sea
Day 3: Stavanger
Day 4: Olden (In port), Innvikfjorden (cruise-by), Nordfjord (cruise-by)
Day 5: Hellesylt (In port), Geirangerfjord (cruise-by), Sunnylvsfjorden (cruise-by), Storfjorden (cruise-by)
Day 6: Haugesund (In port)
Day 7: At sea
Day 8: Return to Southampton
We departed from Southampton, but unfortunately, our journey was impacted by Storm Antoni, bringing gale-force winds that affected coastal areas. Originally scheduled to visit Stavanger, followed by Olden, Hellesylt, and Haugesund, the captain had to quickly make the difficult decision to cancel our first day in Stavanger due to strong winds forecast in Norway and the immense size of Iona (344m in length), making docking potentially unsafe. It is a risk that you take when sailing on a ship as large as Iona as other smaller cruise ships were still able to dock safely.
Steel Cities on the North Sea
This meant an extra day at sea, but with so many facilities on board, we really didn’t mind. My mum and I were simply enjoying the experience and exploring the ship. As a first-time cruiser, I had no idea what to expect!
We were particularly grateful for our decision to book a balcony cabin, allowing us to watch the stormy waves and whitewater as we sailed at a slow speed through the English Channel and eventually passing the North Sea oil rigs which looked immense as we sailed by. I couldn't imagine working on an oil rig for months on end in such a sterile environment in the middle of nowhere. It felt so remote!
The surrounding sea looked deep, dark, and ominous at times but also strangely mesmerising.
The Ship and Its Facilities
Iona is a really impressive ship, one of the newer additions to the P&O fleet, and in pristine condition. With 15 guest decks, the ship has:
Multiple restaurants, bars, and cafés
A spa and wellness centre
2 swimming pools and 8 hot tubs
A walking promenade, fitness gym and a sports/games area
Cinema, casino, theatre, shops, launderette, kids club, an art gallery and even a gin distillery!
Entertainment
Whilst we weren’t particularly bothered about the evening bar and clubhouse entertainment, we did have some relaxing daytime cocktails on the sun deck when the weather allowed us. We also took part in Celebration night on the first night which is a formal social event where everyone dresses up whilst enjoying a glass of bubbly and a three course meal in a venue of your choice. We had booked the Chefs Table experience and it was good. Special entertainment was put on around the ship and there was an opportunity for professional photographs in the Grand Atrium if that was your thing.
On the following evenings, we watched a few show performances from the entertainment team in the Headliners Theatre, including an impressive acrobatics show in the SkyDome, a glass-domed pool area that transforms into an entertainment venue at night. The boat was rocking quite heavily at times at the beginning of the week and I was nervously eyeing up the lighting rigs above our heads in the theatre! Of course, it was perfectly fine but with no windows and being at the back of the ship, I felt the movement more in there. Up in the Sky deck, the pool water sloshed around quite a lot too and I wondered if it made it harder for the acrobats to keep their balance!
One evening, we treated ourselves to a 3 course dinner and a show at the Limelight Club, where my mum enjoyed a performance by Gareth Gates of Pop Idol fame. Gareth has since found additional success on stage with credits including the iconic Les Misérables, Joseph and Legally Blonde. His music wasn’t my style at all, but he was talented and seemed like a lovely genuine guy as he chatted away to the audience between songs. The dining experience was excellent and I’m glad mum had a lovely time!
Dining on Board
The sheer variety of food on board was incredible. Our favorite meal was at the casual Beach House restaurant on the first night, where we indulged in tiger prawns and a fillet steak served sizzling on a hot lava stone - perfectly cooked and absolutely delicious. Other restaurants we tried included:
The Olive Grove - serving Mediterranean dishes
Sindhu - offering contemporary Indian cuisine
Pearl, Coral, and Aqua - the three main dining rooms with set menus featuring British classics
The Quays - for casual fast food, including traditional fish and chips, fried chicken, curries, noodles, and burgers
The Horizon Buffet - a self-service restaurant that offers a wide selection of food from around the world at any time of day
The food in the gastropub, The Keel and Cow also looked very tasty and we would have loved to have tried the Epicurean, a fine dining restaurant for their famous afternoon teas or the Glasshouse which served Mediterranean tapas, mains, and desserts with a great wine selection but we simply ran out of time to try them all.
With three full meals a day, we ate more than we probably ever had in a week! Many passengers were going back for second or third helpings, plus headed to the Horizon buffet for midnight snacks after a night at the clubhouse. As I was with mum, we were tucked up in bed with a G&T watching movies most nights rather than bar hopping and occasionally treated ourselves with room service to our cabin instead.
For many, a cruise is the ultimate indulgence, and with so much available, it’s easy to see why! There was so much choice and you could eat as much or as little as you liked at any time of day. You could even book in to have an ice cream afternoon tea at Ripples, the sundae and ice cream bar although we weren’t sure how you could eat all that ice cream without brain freeze! We found ourselves grateful for the walking promenade and shore excursions - essential for burning off all the delicious food. Otherwise, we might have needed to be rolled off the ship when we returned to Southampton!
First Port of Call – Olden
After a long journey across the North Sea overnight, we set our alarms and woke early at 5 a.m. It was still dark as we bundled up in our coats and pyjamas, settling into our balcony chairs to witness our arrival into the fjordlands. The anticipation of finally seeing land and the scenery we had heard so much about was exhilarating.
Though Storm Antoni still lingered, bringing mist, rain, and low-hanging clouds, there was something serene about sipping our morning coffee while taking in the rugged, remote coastline. The storm had followed us all the way from the UK and had struck Norway with force, causing landslides and torrential rain in some areas. A severe weather alert from the Norwegian government buzzed through to our phones - a moment of collective confusion as 5,200 passengers and 1800 crew received the same emergency message simultaneously. The alert sirens rippling across the ship created an eerie, wave-like echo, and for a moment we wondered if something more dramatic had happened - perhaps even a man overboard! The previous week’s cruise had enjoyed sunshine and T-shirt weather, so we couldn’t help but feel a little unlucky.
Perhaps exacerbated by the rain, the sheer number of waterfalls tumbling down the cliffs, added to the beauty of the landscape. Every so often, we spotted traditional Norwegian wooden houses, their twinkling lights glowing warmly in the mist. Some were perched impossibly high on the cliffside, seemingly accessible only by boat, with no roads in sight. I couldn’t help but wonder about the lives of the people who lived in such isolation.
Initially, we hadn’t planned an excursion in Olden, intending instead to explore the small town on foot. However, after our Stavanger excursion was cancelled, we decided to book a last-minute shore experience: "The Best of Nordfjordeid." This included a scenic coach ride through the area, a visit to the Sagastad Viking Centre - home to a 30-metre Myklebust ship, an authentic replica of one of the largest Viking vessels ever discovered and a trip to the Norwegian Fjord Horse Centre, where we met these unique horses and learned how the breed has remained pure for over 2,000 years. With relentless rain throughout the day, we were glad of our decision to book an excursion with mostly indoor activities and warming up with tea and biscuits in the stable café was a welcome break. Our tour guide seemed less enthused all day - perhaps weary of both the weather and her job - I know I’d be rubbish at being a tour guide repeating the same information day after day! Despite the dreary conditions, the day was well spent learning about Norway’s history and stunning landscapes.
A Heartwarming Farewell from Olden
Before departing, we had just enough time for a quick browse through the souvenir shops at the port, chuckling at the classic troll figures Norway is so famous for and buying some chocolate and cloudberry jam. But the real highlight came as we prepared to leave - experiencing what Olden is best known for - its cruise ship send-off. I was intrigued to see it for myself.
As the ship readied for departure, the captain spoke to us over the loudspeaker, inviting everyone to gather on the port side. Below, the locals had assembled at the dock, waving Norwegian flags alongside flags from the UK and various other nations. Music filled the air such as ‘Rockin’ All Over the World,’ ‘We Are Sailing,’ and ‘Time to Say Goodbye’ by Sarah Brightman and Andrea Bocelli, creating a truly special atmosphere. Children bounced on trampolines, grinning and waving enthusiastically at passengers, as the sound of laughter drifted across the water. Everyone on board joined in, waving back to the residents who had so warmly welcomed us. It may sound sentimental, but in that moment, it felt incredibly human. The music continued to play as we slowly edged away from the dock, and goosebumps ran down our arms. It was a simple yet deeply moving experience and one that left a lasting impression.
What made it even more special was knowing that the people of Olden do this time and time again for every departing cruise ship, yet it never felt routine. There was a sincerity to their gestures, as if they were truly happy we had come to visit their little town and I’m so glad we didn’t miss it.
Olden’s famous send-off for P & O Iona
Second Port – Hellesylt & an Unexpected Accident!
Our second stop was the peaceful town of Hellesylt, known for its huge waterfall that tumbles through the heart of the village. With just a couple of souvenir shops and little else to do after walking to view the waterfall, we opted for another shore excursion - the ‘Fjordviews by Transfer Cruise’, which took us on a scenic ferry journey through the fjord to the nearby town of Geiranger which I really wanted to visit.
Despite its jaw-dropping scenery, Geiranger is a tiny town and close-knit community with only around 250 residents. We learned from the tour guide that many younger people are moving away due to the harsh winters, where daylight dwindles to just four to five hours per day. The town relies heavily on tourism, welcoming up to 180 cruise ships each season and around 300,000 visitors every summer. However, we also knew that this stunning location faces a serious natural threat - the looming risk of a tsunami caused by the unstable Åkerneset mountainside. Scientists closely monitor the area, fearing that if a massive rockslide occurs, it could send a 30-80 metre-high wave racing through the fjord, giving Geiranger just 10 minutes to evacuate. It was an unsettling thought, but standing there looking at such incredible views, the risk felt worth it. It didn’t help that I had watched the 2015 disaster movie The Wave, which depicted that exact scenario unfolding and I couldn’t help but nervously think about it as we sailed down the fjord. My anxious mind can be wild at times!
We had also heard rumours circulating at the time that cruise ships might soon be banned from Geiranger due to concerns about over-tourism and environmental impact. Having experienced it firsthand, I do tend to agree that massive cruise ships such as Iona are likely to have a negative impact on the environment in these beautiful places. I did wonder what will happen to this little town and its residents if they followed through with the ban. I have since heard that the Norwegian government has now made amendments to the original proposals. Originally planned for 2026, they extended the timeframe to allow cruising companies more time to add other, more suitable sailing vessels to their fleets. Only ships that run on cleaner technologies, such as electric or hybrid propulsion, will be permitted to operate in the fjords. The ban applies to all ships over 10,000 gross tonnes. Tourist ships and ferries under 10,000 tonnes must still be zero-emission by 2026.
From Geiranger, we boarded a coach for a breathtaking drive through the mountains, passing waterfalls and traditional 200-year-old farms that seemed impossibly perched on narrow cliffsides. The route took us up 11 dramatic hairpin bends to Eagle’s Bend, offering panoramic views of the fjord below and stopping at the Ørnesvingen Viewpoint. We stood beneath a waterfall beside the roadside and felt how cold the cascading water was - it was freezing! We also visited the famous Flydalsjuvet viewpoint above the village which looked straight out of a postcard.
Then our relaxing journey took an unexpected turn. While we waited for our coach to collect us, our driver, in the process of turning around on the mountain road, crashed into the rock face, taking out the back of the bus! When he returned to us at the pickup point, he was visibly flustered, and hastily ushered us on board. Shattered glass littered the back rows of seats, and the rear end looked worryingly damaged - but with no time to spare, we had to race back down the mountain to catch our return ferry to Hellesylt where Iona awaited us. The tour guide informed us that the cruise ships will not wait for late passengers under any circumstance. As we rolled into town, locals looked on in disbelief at the state of our battered coach and red-faced driver. I hope he didn’t get in too much trouble with the boss!
Despite the drama, we made it back in one piece and boarded the return ferry for a final voyage through the fjord. A day filled with stunning scenery, an unexpected accident, and an unforgettable adventure - definitely one for the memory books!
Third Port – Haugesund: A Sunny Surprise
For our final port stop, we woke up to glorious sunshine - the perfect way to start our day in Haugesund. But before heading out, we treated ourselves to a couple of hours of pure relaxation in the ship’s spa. I had managed to convince Mum to step out of her comfort zone, put on a swimsuit, and join me in the hot tubs, pool, heated loungers, sauna, and steam rooms. With only six-eight people allowed in at a time, it felt peaceful and indulgent, and I was so glad Mum enjoyed the experience. It is not often I get in a swimsuit either and it was lovely to lose our inhibitions and go for it.
Instead of booking an excursion for the rest of the day, we opted for a leisurely 30-minute walk into town, which turned out to be a great decision. We stumbled upon a lively music festival on the quay, where we relaxed with live performances and browsed local stalls. After soaking up the festival atmosphere, we wandered into the town centre for a bit of shopping, treating myself to some perfume. While it was interesting to visit, Haugesund itself felt quite industrial, lacking the scenic charm of some of our previous stops so we decided to return to the ship early and make the most of the sunshine. With a pina colada cocktail in hand, we lounged on deck, taking in the peaceful views over the quieter side of Haugesund - the perfect way to unwind before the final leg of our cruise.
A Memorable Voyage to the Norwegian Fjords
Despite a rocky start with Storm Antoni altering our itinerary, we made the most of our time at sea, enjoying the luxury of the ship, delicious food, and breathtaking ocean views from our balcony. When we finally reached Norway’s stunning fjords, each stop offered something unique. Beyond the scenery, this trip gave us the chance to step outside our comfort zones - whether it was convincing Mum to try the spa, braving the stormy North Sea, or navigating the steep and winding fjord roads in a battered coach!
As we sailed back toward Southampton, I knew this was a journey I would remember forever. Norway had left a lasting impression, and our mother-daughter adventure was everything we had hoped for - relaxing, exciting, and unforgettable. Just what my mum needed and deserved.
