Discovering Kaş: A Hidden Gem on Turkey's Turquoise Coast
Discovering Kaş: A Hidden Gem on Turkey's Turquoise Coast
The world was opening back up after the pandemic and the summer of 2022 led us to an unforgettable family getaway in Kaş, a charming and relatively undiscovered town nestled along Turkey's breathtaking Turquoise Coast in the Antalya Province.
Once a humble fishing village, Kaş has slowly developed into a boutique travel destination, popular with Turks and divers, whilst blending authenticity with a laid-back, bohemian atmosphere. For those seeking a tranquil escape from the mass tourism and crowds of towns such as Bodrum and Antalya, I think Kaş offers the perfect retreat.
There is a natural marina with crystal-clear waters where yachts are moored, and we loved that there are no towering high-rise package holiday resorts in sight. The traditional buildings in Kaş are a blend of Ottoman and Greek architectural influences. Many of the structures are low-rise, maintaining the town’s quaint atmosphere. The narrow, cobblestone streets are lined with white-washed houses adorned with wooden shutters and vibrant bougainvillea, whilst quirky street art adds splashes of colour.
As this was our first trip to Turkey, we initially considered Ölüdeniz. However, since we wanted to prioritise relaxation over nightlife, we discovered Kaş, which seemed to tick all the right boxes – and I’m so glad it did!
Map of Kaş in Turkey
A Stay with a View
We stayed just outside of town on the serene Çukurbağ Peninsula in an Airbnb called Villa Mavi. Surrounded by vibrant flowers, olive trees and fragrant lemon trees, the villa provided breathtaking sea views, speckled with tiny islands that made for an idyllic morning coffee backdrop whilst listening to the melodic tunes of the local songbirds. It really was very peaceful. One of the villa's unexpected highlights for our daughters was the company of its resident cats, lovingly cared for by the host who came to feed them every day, and there was even wandering tortoises that happily roamed the garden all day. They were surprisingly fast!
The villa featured a shared pool with the neighbouring villa - an absolute necessity in Turkey's sizzling summer heat. But the true highlight was the private sun loungers perched along the rocky coastline a short walk away, offering private access to the crystal-clear turquoise waters. With hardly anyone around, it felt like our own slice of paradise - swimming, sunbathing, and soaking up the peaceful surroundings in absolute bliss. The only drawback was it was quite windy at times, which meant you could burn easily without realising as it was so hot.
A section of the coastline was reserved for the nearby hotel, which included an outdoor bar and showers, though these weren’t in use at the time. It seemed many hotels in the area were either closed or operating with minimal staff, but we weren’t complaining as it was quieter for us. We learned that many of these businesses had been hit hard by the pandemic, with some still not reopening. It seemed like such a shame, especially since the locals rely heavily on tourism for their livelihoods and were struggling to make ends meet. Despite the challenges for the tourism industry, construction was booming on the peninsula, leading us to wonder if these were for private residences instead, as the area otherwise had a decidedly affluent feel.
Getting Around: Driving in Kaş
Renting a car proved invaluable for exploring Kaş, especially with kids in tow. The car hire process was affordable and very simple, picking up and returning the car at Dalaman airport. While the town was technically within walking distance from our villa, the walk under the scorching sun would have been a challenge. The peninsula itself was quiet and exclusive, dotted with upscale holiday villas and boutique hotels, making it feel far removed from the bustle of town. Driving in this area was a breeze, with the well-maintained D400 road hugging the coastline, creating breathtaking switchbacks and postcard-worthy views. Traffic was minimal, and navigating the area was surprisingly easy. If you're planning to stay outside the main town, I highly recommend having a car for convenience and flexibility.
Approaching Kaş on the D400 coast road
Food & Drink: A Taste of Local Delights
While we mostly self-catered, we did indulge in a few local dining experiences. For essentials, a small shop on the peninsula provided fresh bread, milk, snacks, and drinks, while well-stocked supermarkets in town made it easy to stock up for self-catering at other times.
Although we dined in one of the more exclusive hotel restaurants in the area with impeccable sunset views and service at Manzara Restaurant, the standout and our personal preference was actually a more relaxed restaurant attached to a nearby hotel, Diva Restaurant, which was just a two-minute walk from our villa. Their food was delicious, and we really enjoyed their fresh Ezme dip - a spicy meze made from finely chopped or blended tomatoes, peppers, onions, garlic, and fresh herbs like parsley. It’s typically mixed with olive oil, lemon juice, and pomegranate molasses for a balance of acidity and sweetness, then seasoned with spices such as red pepper flakes and sumac for a bit of heat. I also loved the "Sigara Böreği" which is a feta like cheese and fresh herbs like parsley tightly wrapped in filo pastry and fried until golden brown. Our daughter couldn't get enough of their warm chicken salad (which I’ve since tried and failed to recreate at home), and the hospitality of the owners made our visits even more enjoyable. They kindly let us use the hotel facilities and we were able to use their pool table to enjoy a few games with the girls, whilst we had a few more drinks after dinner.
We also had a conversation with the owners about the economic challenges currently being faced by locals after the pandemic, giving us a interesting insight into their life in this part of the world and the problems they were trying to overcome. There was a shared understanding between us about the pandemic’s impact, highlighting how it affected people and their businesses everywhere, no matter where they lived and they seemed like really nice people. We really recommend giving their restaurant a try if they are still there!
Dining in Kaş itself was a good experience, with numerous open-air restaurants and bars lining the town’s lively harbour. Many offered fantastic views of the busy promenade and the constant activity of boats coming and going. The cuisine was a mix of traditional Turkish and Mediterranean flavours, with plenty of delicious fresh seafood, mezes, and grilled meats on offer.
There were many to choose from but we settled on Lola Restaurant, simply because it shared a name with our daughter! The friendly waiters welcomed us warmly, eager to provide great service and food. We also dined at Cinarlar Pizza Garden Restaurant which was located more centrally in the town. The food here was delicious, the portion sizes were great and I really liked the traditional decor.
There were numerous quirky bars nearby with live music and there was a great buzz and atmosphere as we walked around after dinner. Interestingly, I noticed that it was rare to see women working front of house roles in any of the restaurants or bars which I later discovered was the norm in smaller towns outside of the main tourist hubs due to societal, cultural and economic reasons. It didn’t quite sit right with me. However, everywhere we dined, service was quick, the food was of excellent quality, and the prices were very reasonable.
Exploring Kaş’s Activities and Ancient Wonders
Kaş is steeped in history, with influences from the Lycian, Greek, and Roman civilizations. The town also is also located on the Lycian Way, a famous long-distance hiking trail that stretches approximately 540km (335 miles) along Turkey’s southwestern coast, from Fethiye to Antalya. There are many hiking trails which you can follow that are both mountainous and coastal in scenery and range in difficulty. Kaş is considered one of the best diving spots in Türkiye, offering crystal-clear waters, rich marine life, and fascinating underwater wrecks. The combination of warm Mediterranean waters, excellent visibility, and diverse dive sites makes it a favourite among divers of all levels, from beginners to advanced.
Throughout the region, Lycian sarcophagi - stone tombs dating back to the 4th-century BCE are scattered across the countryside and town. The Lycians are believed to have placed their dead in cliffside tombs or rock crevices, possibly for spiritual reasons, though the exact details of their burial rituals remain uncertain. Many of these tombs remain well-preserved, while others are overgrown or weathered by time. One of our more adventurous strolls had us clambering up a nearby hill to Akdam Dorik Mezar, a hauntingly well-preserved 4th-century Lycian rock-cut tomb. Stepping inside was a spine-tingling experience, especially when we realised the stone benches must have originally been used for laying bodies to rest.
There are many more tombs you can visit in the area, including the The Lion Sarcophagus dating back to the 4th-century prominently located in the centre of town and popularly known as the King's Tomb. There are also some tombs carved into the cliffside above the town called The Lycia Rock Tombs (Likya Kaya Mezarları). We never actually made it up there, thanks to the intense August heat and the steep rock face that required both strong nerves and a head for heights - neither of which I have! Cue the inevitable eye-rolling from my husband and children, who, unlike me, have no fear of heights and had even considered launching themselves off the local cliffs for a bit of paragliding fun, just as many locals and tourists do. I was relieved to have dodged that one, but it was still interesting to watch the paragliders drifting gracefully overhead before landing on the beach. While paragliding in Kaş isn’t as well-known or commercialised as in Ölüdeniz, Turkey’s top paragliding destination just to the North, it seemed like an incredible experience for those brave enough to try, offering breathtaking scenery and far fewer crowds than other locations.
On another day, a stroll through town led us to a beautifully preserved ancient Lycian amphitheater at Antiphellos Ancient City (Antiphellos Antik Kenti). It was built in the 1st century BCE. Unlike many other amphitheaters in Turkey, this one faces the sea, offering breathtaking views of the Mediterranean. It could hold around 4,000 spectators and was primarily used for performances and public gatherings. Nowadays it is occasionally used for cultural events, concerts, and performances, particularly during the summer months. Entry is free normally and the sea views were absolutely stunning. I highly recommend checking this place out if you get a chance!
A Day Trip to Patara Ancient City and Beach
Another memorable excursion was a drive up the coast to Patara Beach and Patara Ancient City, one of Turkey’s most important archaeological sites. Once a thriving Lycian, Greek, and Roman city and with a history dating back over 2,000 years, it was a major port and trade centre of the ancient Mediterranean. Patara is also believed to be the birthplace of St. Nicholas, the historical figure who inspired the legend of Santa Claus.
Over centuries, Patara was buried under shifting sands, which actually helped preserve many of its ruins. Ongoing excavations continue to reveal new discoveries which meant some areas were off-limits as the archeologists were busy at work, but wandering through the ruins was a fascinating glimpse into history.
It was very quiet on the day we visited with only a few tourists. However, be warned: the August heat here is no joke! Pack a sunhat, slather on sunscreen, and bring plenty of water - this adventure is not for the faint-hearted and we nearly boiled alive. The site is very large and we were unable to visit all of the ruins because of the heat. If you are visiting in the height of Summer as we did, I would recommend being far more sensible than us and aim to arrive first thing in the morning before moving on to the shaded parasols on the beach as the temperature ramps up.
Be sure to stop off at the supermarket on the way to bring your own lunch too. It was a relief to reach the beach after walking around the ruins so that the girls could cool off in the ocean! There are sunloungers and parasols available to hire on the beach and quite a long walk across a sandy boardwalk from the car park so beach shoes are definitely needed as the sand gets very hot to walk on. You will be rewarded with views of the long expansive golden sand beach once you make it across and there is also a small beach cafe selling fast food and a few souvenir stalls at the car park.
Patara Beach is also a protected nesting site for loggerhead sea turtles. Every year, from May to September, female turtles come ashore to lay their eggs in the soft sand. The hatchlings then emerge around late July to October, making their way to the sea. Because of this, Patara Beach has strict conservation measures such as no visitors allowed between sunset and sunrise to protect nesting turtles, no sunbeds or umbrellas on certain parts of the beach and marked-off nesting areas to prevent disturbance.
You have to pay an entrance fee to access both Patara Ancient City and Patara Beach, as the beach is located within the archaeological site but it is worth it for an interesting day out.
Beautiful Beaches and Crystal Clear Water
There are several beaches nearby on the peninsula and in town which you can visit. I would say all are very small with limited parking and little shade but the water is crystal clear and warm.
Locals come sensibly prepared with parasols and beach chairs which we didn’t have and so we decided to venture further up the coast to a little shingle beach called Seyrek Çakıl Plajı where you could rent straw topped cabinas, parasols or sunloungers for the day and swim or snorkel. Beach shoes are recommended as the shingle was quite sharp and also very hot! There was lots of parking, toilets and showers and a small local restaurant across the road sold fast food, ice cream and drinks so it was easy to spend a day here and be perfectly content.
Slightly further north you will find the Instagram famous Kaputaş Beach. This place gets packed out early and there is limited parking so we weren’t able to get a spot there. It looked gorgeous though. The beach is nestled at the base of a steep canyon, accessible by descending a set of approximately 200 steps. The beach is public, with facilities like sun loungers, parasols, and a small café offering refreshments. The crystal-clear waters make it ideal for swimming and snorkeling and we could see why it is known as being a highlight of the Turkish Riviera. Maybe next time!
There are also quite a few private beach clubs all along this coastline that you can book into for the day with waterslides and pontoons and a busier more kid-friendly vibe if you have younger children.
Final Thoughts
Kaş delivered exactly what we were looking for - a peaceful, authentic escape with stunning scenery, interesting history, and a touch of luxury at an affordable price. Whether you’re relaxing by the sea, indulging in fresh local cuisine, or uncovering ancient treasures, this hidden gem on the Turquoise Coast is an experience not to be missed. If you’re looking for an alternative to Turkey’s bustling tourist hotspots, Kaş might just be the perfect place for your next adventure.
