Wild Encounters on a Kenyan Safari Adventure
Wild Encounters on a Kenyan Safari Adventure
In December 2023, we embarked on an unforgettable two week Christmas adventure in Kenya, starting in the bustling city of Nairobi. Our journey took us on safari through Amboseli National Park, Tsavo West National Park, and the Taita Hills Wildlife Sanctuary before heading to the stunning white-sand beaches of Diani on the country's west coast.
In December 2023, we embarked on an unforgettable Christmas adventure in Kenya, starting in the bustling city of Nairobi. Our journey took us on safari through Amboseli National Park, Tsavo West National Park, and the Taita Hills Wildlife Sanctuary before heading to the stunning white-sand beaches of Diani on the country's west coast. We had previously explored parts of Africa - taking the girls to Morocco when they were tiny, and Matthew having traveled to Namibia, Senegal and The Gambia. However, this was our first time in East Africa, and we werenβt quite sure what to expect. We were particularly looking forward to catching up with our friends, Louise and Reuben, in Diani for Christmas Day.
Map of Kenya
Planning the Safari
When booking our safari, I spent a great deal of time researching reputable tour companies. With so many options, it was overwhelming, but we eventually chose Explorer Kenya. Their professional website, positive reviews, and competitive quote seemed good and Robert Murigi, the companyβs director, was incredibly responsive and accommodating as we worked out our itinerary. After several email exchanges, we placed our trust in him, sending a deposit by bank transfer and agreeing to pay the balance upon meeting our guide, Samuel Ndungu, in Nairobi.
Arrival in Nairobi
After a long flight with a stopover in Istanbul, we arrived in Nairobi and took a taxi to the Westwood Hotel in the Westlands district. Located in a quiet area, the hotel had lovely grounds backing onto the Karura Forest and was home to a yellow billed kite who was overseeing activities in the garden below. Arriving late at night, we checked in and collapsed into bed, exhausted. The next morning, we discovered the hotel was hosting a large Kenyan wedding - an exciting, vibrant affair filled with a brass band, drumming, dancing, and busy preparations. As we had breakfast, we watched the wedding organisers set up the garden for the big celebration. It was fascinating to witness the energy of a Kenyan wedding firsthand!
Exploring Nairobi β National Museum of Kenya
Wanting to make the most of our short time in Nairobi, we headed to the National Museum of Kenya. This well-curated museum gave us an insight into Kenyaβs cultural heritage and natural history. We explored the botanical garden, where we spotted a chameleon in a tree, and visited the reptile section, which featured a variety of snakes, both venomous and non-venomous, as well as a baby crocodile. The zookeeper was really friendly, encouraging the girls to hold the snakes and crocodile - an experience they had fun doing. Meanwhile, a touring group of schoolchildren and their teachers were fascinated by the girls, asking for photos - they felt like mini celebrities and we couldnβt quite figure out why! The children followed us into the reptile section and were screaming in excitement (or terror!) when the zookeeper brought out the snakes and baby crocodile. It was noisy and eventful but fun afternoon.
After a few hours, jet lag got the better of us, and we returned to the hotel for some rest. By then, the wedding was in full swing, and the restaurant staff were busy serving guests. Too tired to venture out again, we ordered some food in the restaurant, soaking in the atmosphere of the wedding without getting in the way and feeling intrusive. Unfortunately, later that night I fell ill with food poisoning which was such an annoying setback on the eve of our safari.
The Safari Begins β Amboseli National Park
Our route of 413 miles through Kenya from Nairobi stopping at:
Amboseli National Park
Tsavo West National Park
Taita Hills Wildlife Sanctuary
Diani
Mombasa
Source: Google Maps
Our guide from Explorer Kenya, Samuel Ndungu, arrived promptly at 8am, and we loaded up the safari jeep with our bags with me clutching a sick bag for the four-hour drive to Amboseli National Park, our first destination. I was still feeling unwell and had to skip the evening game drive later that day, much to my bitter disappointment. Samuel was very kind and understanding though and stopped the vehicle whenever I broke out in a sweat and needed to be sick at the side of the road! Matthew and the girls returned later that evening full of excitement, having spotted a pride of lions in the distance. I felt a bit fed up, missing out on something I had been looking forward to so much but I was pleased that they had a good time and hoped I would be feeling better tomorrow.
Thankfully, I had recovered and was well enough the next morning to join an early morning game drive, and it was absolutely awesome. We had arranged to meet Samuel at the crack of dawn and off we jumped into the safari jeep to be treated to magnificent views of the snow capped Mount Kilimanjaro, as we watched hot air balloons float over the plains, and spotted giraffes, elephants, gazelles, flamingos, hippos, hyenas, and eagles. We were lucky enough to come across a huge herd of elephants, including babies and it was probably one of the best times of my life as we sat and quietly watched so many of them pass in front of us. Samuel was a fantastic guide, incredibly knowledgeable and skilled at spotting wildlife. That evening, we stayed at Amboseli Serena Lodge, where we ate a buffet style dinner of traditional African and Swahili dishes.
Tsavo West National Park
The next day, we drove to Tsavo West National Park, a stunning landscape of rolling plains, acacia-dotted plateaus, and lava flows. Tsavo West is home to various wildlife, including the famed Tsavo red elephants and lions. Here, we had a very close encounter with an angry adult bull elephant who was considering charging at our jeep until we made a hasty retreat. He was not messing around! We also caught a fleeting glimpse of a leopard before it quickly disappeared into the bush, far too quickly for a photograph and never to be seen again.
We visited the Shetani Lava Flow where Tsetse flies took a fancy to me in particular much to the girls amusement - their bites were really painful, like being jabbed with little needles! I had to wrap myself in scarves and blankets to try and stop them but was bitten so much as I tried to put the worry of contracting a disease called African Sleeping Sickness out of my mind and hope for the best! The Shetani Lava Flow is a vast expanse of solidified black lava. The name Shetani means "devil" in Swahili, and local communities once believed the lava was the work of the devil, as it appeared suddenly and consumed the land.
We then went on to visit Mzima Springs, home to hippos, crocodiles, and turtles. There was an underwater viewing hut you could go in to see if you could spot any hippos but they were swimming further away and the hut had definitely seen better days! Samuel warned us not to linger too long, as hippos can become aggressive when they emerge from the water at dusk. He seemed nervous so we did as we were told! There were not many other tourists here and usually a guide from the park accompanies you along the trail with a rifle but it was late and I think they had all had enough for the day!
A close encounter with an adult bull elephant in Tsavo West National Park
That night, we stayed at Ngulia Safari Lodge, stopping off at a souvenir market on the way. We dined under the stars eating delicious Swahili stews, pasta, rice and African dishes in the open air restaurant while watching animals gather at a watering hole. The ambiance and experience was truly magical, a memory we will all remember forever.
All of the lodges we stayed at had lovely swimming pools too which would have been lovely to have a dip in to cool off but we were on a tight schedule, getting up early and arriving back late after the game drives. If i am ever lucky enough to go on safari again, I would stay longer at each one and fully immerse in all the experiences that the lodges have to offer as they really were little slices of paradise. I was a little nervous walking back to our room at this lodge however, as Iβd seen a photo from another review showing a cobra curled up next to their hotel room door! Thankfully we were snake-free!
Watering hole at night at Ngulia Safari Lodge
Taita Hills Wildlife Sanctuary
Our next stop was the beautiful Taita Hills Wildlife Sanctuary, where we stayed at the Salt Lick Safari Lodge - a one-of-a-kind accommodation perched on stilts above a watering hole. Watching elephants and baboons roam beneath our lodge felt like something straight out of Jurassic Park, especially as the elephants gracefully crossed the landscape, their deep rumbles echoing through the air.
One of the highlights was the underground viewing station, which offered an up-close encounter with these gentle giants as they gathered at the watering hole - a truly unforgettable experience. Thanks to the recent El NiΓ±o rains, the sanctuary was unusually lush and vibrant for this time of year, a refreshing contrast to its typically dry, golden grasslands.
At the main resort, we explored a small World War I museum before eating a buffet lunch laid on for us in the dining hall. Samuel was determined to track down the resident lions, but unfortunately, the rangers told us that the pride had been elusive for days. However, we still spotted elephants, buffalo, hartebeests, gazelles, impalas, and a lots of birdlife. Though the lions remained out of sight, the sheer beauty in Taita Hills and the unique lodges on stilts made this an unforgettable stop on our journey.
Elephants roaming at Salt Lick Safari Lodge
The Mombasa Ferry and the Journey to Diani
The following morning, we rejoined the infamous A109 highway to Mombasa, a road as notorious for its chaotic energy as it is for its high accident rate. Driving through the townships was a full sensory overload of sights, sounds, and smells mingling with the dust in the air. Many tourists opt to fly from Nairobi to the coast or take the SGR train to avoid this route, and after witnessing a few accidents firsthand, we understood why. One particularly sobering moment was passing the charred remains of a bus, still smoldering at the roadside and a stark reminder of the dangers here. Samuel had done a good job of getting us to our destination safely and guiding us through the madness.
Upon reaching the Likoni Ferry Terminal, we waited in line for the ferry crossing to Diani Beach. Waiting in the scorching heat, with no air conditioning in our jeep, we were practically melting. But the ferry ride itself was an experience. We watched in fascination as hundreds of locals surged aboard as foot passengers, dodging carts laden with everything from fresh produce to household goods. It was the kind of scene that perfectly captures the vibrant, unpredictable charm of Kenya and despite the sweat and the crowds, it was really interesting.
The End of Our Safari
Once we arrived in Diani, we were ready to settle into our Air BnB villa to relax for the next few days.
We said our goodbyes to Samuel and tipped him to thank him for having such a friendly and happy nature but also for being such an outstanding and knowledgable guide for the whole journey. We were so grateful for the incredible adventure he had led us on.
We highly recommend using Explorer Kenya!
Villa Borlotti - A Perfect Retreat
For our time in Diani, we booked Villa Borlotti, hoping to relax, explore the area, and soak up some sun by the pool. The villa turned out to be an excellent choice - securely tucked away in the private Msitu Kwetu compound, complete with 24/7 gated security and private parking.
Emma, the housekeeper, and Mwinyi, the gardener and pool caretaker, were fantastic hosts, ensuring our stay was comfortable. The villaβs lush garden was a haven for wildlife, with daily visits from colobus monkeys, baboons, and sykes monkeys. The cheeky monkeys often peeked over the guttering, hoping to snatch a snack, so we had to keep an eye on our belongings! Mwinyi even provided us with a slingshot to ward them off, but we found their antics entertaining and looked forward to their visits.
Aside from monkeys, the garden was home to lizards, millipedes, giant African land snails, and a resident cat, Tiger, who quickly won the hearts of the girls. The baboons, however, were a bit of a menace - one day, they raided the bins while we were out, scattering rubbish everywhere. With the sweltering heat, the smell was absolutely rancid!
Exploring Dianiβs Culinary Scene
Dining out was easy in Diani, with plenty of excellent restaurants nearby. The main road was just a short two-minute walk from the villa, making it easy to hop on a tuk-tuk for a ride to the best local spots. Reuben put us in touch with a friend of his though, Nderi, who was a private driver with really reasonable prices so after a few hair-raising rides on the tuk-tuks we tended to stick with him. There are many accidents and fatalities on the main Diani beach road due to the locals driving tuk-tuks like maniacs! Security and safety felt like an issue at times too.
With our transport sorted, we enjoyed The Salty Squid Beach Bar & Restaurant and Nomad Beach Bar & Restaurant, both offering stunning beachside settings. For a more laid-back lunch one day with a few beers, we visited Amigos Beach Bar, conveniently located across the road, near our villa. A highlight was catching up with our friends Louise and Reuben, who introduced us to one of their favourites, Colobus Shade, an authentic and unpretentious local seafood restaurant right on the beach.
On Christmas day, we were invited to have lunch with Reuben's family and enjoy a traditional African Christmas dinner at Rock Starz Village. We sat under the shade of some trees with cockerels pecking the ground around us, and chatted to his father Ezra, who was a wonderful guy with a lot of personality and a mischievous but wise sparkle in his eye. I really liked him instantly and he had a lot of tales to tell. He invited us to his home afterwards to show us around which was really nice of him. He showed us the fruit he was growing and gave some to the girls whilst telling us stories about the naughty monkeys who were stealing his crops and driving him mad. It was really lovely meeting them all making it a highlight of our trip. Louise and Reuben wanted to show us their house too and we met their dogs Ruby and Nala who were very excited to slobber over some unusual house guests!
Kaya Kinondo Sacred Forest β A Walk Through History
During our stay, Reuben and Louise took us to the Kaya Kinondo Sacred Forest, the only sacred forest open to visitors among the nine Mijikenda tribes along Kenyaβs coast. Here, ceremonies are still performed in the most sacred areas, where ancestral spirits are believed to reside. Our visit included hugging ancient trees, swinging on vines, and being followed by a troop of noisy baboons. The humidity was intense, with so many bugs and mosquitoes, but it was a fascinating place to explore.
A troop of noisy baboons in Kaya Kinondo Sacred Forest
Almasi Art Agency β A Creative Hub
On another day, Reuben gave us a tour of his art gallery, Almasi Art Agency, where he showcased a collection of incredible African artwork. It was inspiring and so interesting to hear about his journey in curating exhibitions and promoting talented Kenyan artists. At the time, he had an exhibition running at Nomad Beach Bar & Restaurant too, and his passion for art was evident in every piece he described to us. Well worth checking this place out if you are in Diani. Tours are free so just get in touch with them to book yourself in.
Colobus Conservation - Protecting Kenyaβs Wildlife
On Louiseβs recommendation, we also visited the Colobus Conservation centre, a non-profit organisation dedicated to protecting the Angolan black and white colobus monkey and preserving local forests. It was fascinating to learn about their work and the challenges these beautiful primates face due to habitat destruction. The monkeys are able to roam freely at the centre and normally reside within the plot of land but weren't there when we visited. A member of staff informed us that a troop of baboons had just passed through and scared them away. We did see some vervets and sykes monkeys and of course, those pesky baboons! We had a tour of the primate rescue facility where staff were caring for injured monkeys or doing research and they gave us a small talk after watching an educational video. There are also opportunities to volunteer here too.
A Change of Scene - Papillon Lagoon Reef Resort
After a few relaxing days at Villa Borlotti, we moved to the Papillon Lagoon Reef Resort to celebrate Christmas. Normally, we prefer private villas, but we compromised for our eldest daughter, who really wanted to experience an all-inclusive resort.
The resort was a mid-range accommodation with a lively atmosphere, though some guests, including Matthew, fell ill during our stay, possibly due to the swimming pool or food. Christmas Day was an amusing affair - the entertainment team, dressed as Santa Claus, rode around on a camel singing Feliz Navidad, much to the girlsβ delight! There was also a festive gala with a BBQ and party. Despite usually avoiding resort games, I got roped into a pΓ©tanque match with my youngest daughter, which turned out to be unexpectedly fun. We actually weren't too bad and the guys on the entertainment team took it very seriously getting very competitive! Evening entertainment was always fun to watch with traditional Maasai dancing or acrobatics on show.
Santa Claus doing his rounds at Papillon Lagoon Reef Resort
The baboons on site were more bold than at the villa, frequently intimidating unsuspecting guests. Meanwhile, the little monkeys were adorably mischievous, perching on balconies, peering through our door and reaching through window bars for anything they could grab. They had bushbabies living in the trees overhanging the restaurant too and it was very cute to see their big eyes peering at you through the leaves before they were shooed away by the staff.
Maasai dancers for the evening entertainment at Papillon Lagoon Reef resort
Second Oldest Baobab Tree in Kenya
Of particular interest to us at the resort, was the huge Baobab tree within the grounds. It is the second oldest Baobab tree in the whole of Kenya and was pretty spectacular. Baobab trees are sacred in many African cultures because of their cultural significance, longevity, and ability to thrive in harsh environments. It is known as the tree that gods planted upside down. The baobabβs fruit pulp can be eaten, soaked in water to make a refreshing drink, preserved into a jam, or roasted and ground to make a coffee-like substance. The bark can be used to make everything from rope, mats, and baskets to paper and cloth. Leaves can also be boiled and eaten, and glue can be made from the flowerβs pollen.
The second oldest Baobab tree in Kenya stands within the grounds of Papillon Lagoon Reef resort
Diani Beach - White Sands and Local Encounters
Dianiβs white sandy beach is gorgeous. While sunbathing isnβt common due to the intense heat, walking along the shore or riding a camel is a must. You can also go diving, kitesurf or take boat trips to the popular Wasini Island or the national marine park. Maasai men often approached us, selling beautiful handcrafted beaded jewellery, and we bought some bracelets as souvenirs.
One particularly funny encounter was with a market seller who introduced himself as βJames Bond.β He enthusiastically persuaded (forced) me to visit his stall, where he sat me down at a table at the back of the shop and insisted I barter for a set of wooden salad spoons I had picked out. I was hopeless at negotiating and, in the end, massively overpaid - but the experience was worth it! Although persistent, they were all very friendly and I understood they just needed to make a living. Matthew did say he wasn't going to leave me alone near there again as I clearly didnβt have what it takes to be a good negotiator!
On one of our days at Diani, our youngest daughter was feeling unwell and so Matthew took our eldest off on one of the boat trips to Kisite-Mpunguti Marine National Park for a day of dolphin spotting and snorkeling. They returned with an adventurous tale of how they had sailed on an old wooden boat with a makeshift canopy along with some Sudanese, Somali and Nigerian tourists - some of whom who ended up getting quite seasick and were afraid as they couldn't swim. It hadn't been quite what they were expecting but an unusual experience nevertheless and probably something they will both remember for a very long time! The snorkeling was good too!
On board entertainment on the way to the Kasite-Mpunguti National Marine Park
Mombasa - A City of Contrasts
As our time in Kenya came to an end, we traveled to Mombasa for a final day of sightseeing before our flight home. Nderi, our driver, arranged for a local guide to show us around, starting with a visit to Fort Jesus Museum. The fort was built between 1593 and 1596 and was subject to many battles and sieges over the centuries as various nations tried to gain an influence over the Indian Ocean trade. The tour was insightful, shedding light on Mombasaβs history and strategic importance.
The heat was relentless, and our guide took great care to ensure we stayed in the shade and kept hydrated as we explored the fort. His passion for its history was obvious, and he was particularly keen to highlight its significance to us, as British visitors. He embarrassingly quizzed us on our knowledge when we arrived and frankly told us we only had a very shallow understanding. He pointed out that King Charles and Camilla had recently toured the site on their recent tour of Kenya, and said that it was a reminder of the deep and often painful historical ties between Britain and this region. He did say however that he believed Britain ultimately absolved themselves when they returned Fort Jesus to Kenya in 1963 and the country gained independence.
With a frank and unfiltered approach, he didnβt shy away from the fortβs darker past. He believed that many British tourists were unaware of the harrowing experiences of the men who were once brought here and in our case, he was right. We arrived knowing little about the history of the fort, the Swahili coast, or the brutal power struggles that shaped this part of East Africa. But our guide had a way of making history come alive, vividly recounting the atrocities, hardships, and resilience of those who had suffered here under Portuguese, Arab, and British rule as they fought for control of the strategic fort. It was a really good history lesson and Iβm glad we visited!
Mombasa was a stark contrast to the serene beaches of Diani. Our guide spoke candidly about the social and economic struggles here, including issues like drug smuggling and crime.
We started our exploration at the iconic Mombasa Lighthouse, having a quick snack stop while soaking in the ocean views. At the Mombasa Spice Market, we nearly fell victim to a pickpocket, but thankfully left with all our belongings, some fragrant vanilla tea and a selection of spices as souvenirs.
Wandering through the Old Town, we had a look at the historic old buildings before stopping at the famous Pembe Mbili tusks monument though the area had an edgy, uneasy feel. At Uhuru Garden Park nearby, the guide showed us massive fruit bats hanging in the trees, but the moment took a turn when an aggressive, disheveled man suddenly approached, snarling something in Swahili just inches from my face. It was unsettling, but our guide swiftly stepped in, calmly telling us not to panic and to keep walking. His reassurance was welcome, but I couldnβt help thinking about how over lunch, he had casually shown us a scar from a knife attack he suffered while protecting one of his tourist groups. After that revelation, paired with our experience, it left us feeling uneasy especially as we had the girls with us.
Once touted as a thriving, illustrious city, Mombasa now seemed to be struggling, and life on the streets looked incredibly tough for many. Perhaps we were just unlucky, but we didnβt experience the usual warm Kenyan hospitality here, nor did we feel particularly welcome at all. With that, we decided to call it a day.
We checked into CityBlue Creekside Hotel & Suites for our last night. It wasn't the best hotel inside despite outward appearances and the staff were really unfriendly but it had a peaceful garden by the water, where we ate dinner while watching the sunset and hundreds of bats flying out from a roost nearby - quite a nice way to wrap up our adventure.
Hundreds of bats flying across the creek in Mombasa at dusk
The following day we made our way to Mombasa airport, ready to fly home to the UK via Addis Ababa in Ethiopia. The airport itself was small but lively, with an unexpected source of entertainment - mischievous monkeys darting around, swiping snacks and playfully teasing travelers. Watching them cause chaos was an amusing way to pass the time as we waited for our flight, and it was a lighthearted end to our trip.
The cheeky resident monkeys at Mombasa airport
Final Thoughts
Our Christmas adventure in Kenya was nothing short of amazing. From the breathtaking landscapes of Amboseli and Tsavo to the warm, turquoise waters of Diani Beach, every moment was filled with awe and excitement. The thrill of spotting elephants against the backdrop of Mount Kilimanjaro, the vibrant culture of Nairobi, and the laid-back charm of the coast created a perfect blend of adventure and relaxation.
Catching up with Louise and Reuben made our time in Diani even more special, giving us a better understanding about the local way of life. Whether it was watching cheeky monkeys steal fruit from our villa, exploring the Kaya Kinondo Sacred Forest, or celebrating Christmas with fresh seafood and laughter, these experiences made our trip truly unforgettable.
Kenya surprised us in so many ways - its beauty, its people, and its awesome wildlife left a lasting impression. Life back in the UK seemed incredibly dull in comparison! While there were moments of challenge in Kenya, like navigating the chaos of Mombasa or fending off persistent baboons, these only added to the journey. One thing is certain: this wonβt be our last trip to Africa. Kenya has found a special place in our hearts, and we look forward to returning one day.
